Bringing Your Devon Home - Feeding Your Devon - Litter Training - Clipping Nails - When You Are Away - Household Dangers

BRINGING YOUR DEVON HOME

Staying as consistent as possible with what your kitten is familiar with will help to make a smooth transition and guard against health problems that can result from a sudden change. Confine your kitten to one room with a litter box, food, water, and an open carrier with his/her bed inside and spend as much time with him/her as possible. This will give your kitten a sense of security in a room he/she can retreat into when it comes time to become familiar with the rest of his/her new home. The amount of time the kitten should be kept in the room may vary from one day to several days. The more activity/introductions (to other pets for example) the kitten will exposed to once he/she leaves the security of that room will help you to determine how long they should be confined. Once he/she is completely comfortable in that room, leave the door open and allow the kitten to explore the rest of the house at its own pace.

If you have other pets, resist the urge to rush introductions. While your kitten is confined it will not only relax and become acclimated to his/her new home, it will also lose its strange scent and take on the scent of its new surroundings. After a few days, put your pet(s) in the room that your kitten has been occupying while you allow the newcomer a chance to explore your home. Bring your pets together gradually and only under your supervision until everyone is at ease. Bonds take time to form and should occur naturally. Your role in the process is to observe, separate them if any of your pets seem stressed, and to spread plenty of love and attention around.

FEEDING YOUR DEVON

If you choose to feed your kitty a different (but still high quality) food from what it is accustomed to eating at it's breeder's home, it would be best to make this transition slowly. Check labels carefully and avoid foods that contain meat or chicken by-products and/or additives. These precautions will also help prevent stomach upset that could be caused by abrupt changes

Your kitten will need to be feed three (3) meals per day until he/she reaches the age of about six (6) months, at which time two (2) meals a day may be provided. Dry food may be made available throughout the day unless your baby begins to resemble a little avocado in which case you will want to make it accessible only at mealtime. Please feed foods made specifically for kittens until he/she is between the age of six (6) and nine (9) months.

It is important that meals be served at regular times with food that is not too hot or too cold. Fresh water should be available at all times. It is preferable to use dishes that are glass, ceramic, or stainless steel. Plastic can cause chin acne. Low, round bowls and saucers are good choices.

Some foods to avoid include chocolate, milk (can cause diarrhea), dog food, raw egg whites and chicken or pork bones.

LITTER TRAINING

Your kitten will not need you to plunk him or her down in a litter box to know how to use it. Litter box behaviors develop normally. All your kitten needs is an easily accessible box, away from it’s feeding area and heavy household traffic patterns. Keep in mind that a young kitten is not going to want to navigate through too many challenges to get to their litter box and that a cold, dark basement area might frighten them. You may want to keep a couple of boxes available in their normal activity areas to save the poor thing from a long hike when a frantic need arises. As we mentioned before, it would probably be a good idea to confine your new kitten (or even an older cat) for the first few days with food, water and bedding while they become more comfortable with their new home. Be sure to spend plenty of time with them though!

CLIPPING NAILS

Because a cat’s nails (claws) are retractable, they aren’t worn down like a dog’s are during normal activity. Nails that have been allowed to grow can split or break off exposing nerve endings, or they can actually grow so long as to curve back into the paw causing pain and possibly infection. On the other hand, cats with nails that have been trimmed are less likely to feel the need to claw at your furniture!

Don’t wait until you have wicked little hooks to deal with. Schedule nail trimming regularly. If nothing else, your cat will become more accustomed to “manicures” if they get them often in kittenhood. A general rule is to trim nails when they extend one-quarter inch beyond the quick, certainly at least once a month. The more often you cut, the less nail you will have to trim. It’s also true that frequent trimming causes the quick to recede back toward the base of the nail making it easier to avoid.

WHEN YOU ARE AWAY

If you need to be away from home for an extended period of time it is far less stressful for your cat (and ultimately for you as well) to provide in-home care rather than boarding. Most places that board cats cater to dogs and to be placed in the midst of the sight, sound, and smell of strange dogs can be terrifying to your cat. You can usually locate a friend or professional cat sitter to provide the care your cat will need. Just try to be sure that whomever you select is familiar with cats and their behaviors. You might even ask your vet about other cat owners that you could get to know to trade off cat-sitting responsibilities.

Don’t assume your selected sitter will know everything. Write down a very specific list of instructions even if you also give them verbally. Include information like:
 

Try to remember that your cat will have more than physical needs when you’re gone. They’ll need extra love and attention too. If you travel frequently, you might want to consider a feline buddy for your cat. Single cats can become anxious and wreck havoc on their home if left alone too long or often. Some cats can even do damage to themselves, licking a particular spot until it’s bare.

HOUSEHOLD DANGERS

What we love most about kittens - their curious, mischievous natures – can also make our homes dangerous for them. Every single object they come across, whether we can see it or not, is likely to be a tempting toy. Teething kittens find books, electrical and phone cords appealing as “gum massagers” while plants are a whole new taste experience. A careful check of your home is necessary to make sure that your kitten is protected from potential dangers like these, which range from detrimental to deadly.

Do not rely on discipline to prevent your kitten from getting into trouble but if a kitten is caught chewing or scratching, while the kitten is in the act, spray him or her with clear water and say a loud firm “no.” If your aim is not particularly accurate, you can try startling the kitten by shaking a tin container filled with pennies. Discipline administered after the fact will not do any good and will just confuse the kitten. NEVER, under any circumstances, resort to hitting or slapping a kitten or cat.

Most plant books will include information on the varieties that are poisonous to cats, and there are many! If you have a poisonous variety, move it to a room where you can be sure the kitten will never have access. It would be best if you decided that it would make a great gift for someone else. You will also find a link to a web site that gives information about poisonous plants on our LINKS page.

For more information on any of the above topics, please don't hesitate to contact me.

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photographs © Yvonne Parks unless otherwise noted
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